The internet was blessed with a preview of Loewe’s spring/summer 2023 collection last week Zendaya’s Instagram, with the global icon wearing a white pole dress with a large rose bust. She posed in a custom look, a spin-off of today’s runway release, in the shower, naturally. Does she wear it outside? Is it just for photos? It doesn’t even matter? Creative director Jonathan Anderson asks what we really want from our clothes — and fashion in general — with another electric collection with creative determination and tension that can answer many questions like it poses.
Similar to the previous few seasons, the designer continues to explore surreal fashion for surreal times. The sparse show space in Paris was all white, reserved for a giant anthurium blooming from a hole in the ground. According to a press release, models emerged wearing different sizes and shapes of the flower, “a product of nature that looks like an object of design and is treated as such,” according to a press release. Press release – leaves tough. Actress Taylor Russell’s Bones and allThe film, which wowed everyone after its premiere in electrifying Venice, opened the screening in a strapless black velvet dress with a single anthurium on her right foot.
Elsewhere, the collection has taken the garment down to its very essence, then pushed it to the next level. The shoes are built entirely from deflated balloons, or are made to look like inflated balloons that hug the foot. Super-short knit babydoll dresses in stiff wool and striped knits, if they can be called skirts, flourished alongside abbreviated hunting jackets with delicate plastic floral tops underneath. The turtleneck sweater outfit had floor-length cape sleeves and a simple t-shirt collar that was exaggerated to cover the models’ mouths. The minis sport a blue shirt and black polka dot tulle that features mountain ranges for the neckline. The mundane and the mundane are both thoroughly examined under Anderson’s ultrasound microscope.
Two glances immediately sent Instagram into turmoil, one of bewilderment and amazement. A simple t-shirt outlined in graphic black “pixels” and shaded to appear frozen in motion, paired with printed khaki pants for a matte and pixelated look. as if they appeared straight from Minecraft. Probably Trompe l’oeil in the 22nd century. Proportional play has become a Loewe signature, and in recent collections has taken on a new meaning as Anderson blurs the line between real and fake, technique and reality.
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Anderson knows the world we live in is changing by the minute. Everything you see online is a copy of a copy, an ad is cloned infinitum and reduced to a simulation in minutes. Through noise, he is creating a garment that is strong, sturdy, but uncompromising with its beauty and craftsmanship. There’s a silver lining of romance and classicism, a platform that puts itself in a commitment against the odd and the weird in a contrived world. These are clothes to take up space, be used for, and perhaps most importantly, consume. A curious and open mind is the best accessory.
Watch Loewe’s spring/summer 2023 show here:
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Kevin LeBlanc is a Fashion Contributor at ELLE Magazine. He covers fashion news, trends and anything related to Robyn Rihanna Fenty.
