The best moments from the London Fashion Week spring 2023 show

London, England September 16, a model backstage before the chopova lowena show during london fashion week September 2022 on September 16, 2022 in London, England

Tim Whitby / BFCbeautiful pictures

When it comes to global fashion influence, is London still calling? There are certainly bright spots, especially with a group of up-and-coming female designers who know what they want — and are following the style of the world, creating space for a unique look. them — even in the face of current bleak events.

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Chopova Lowena’s Banger of a Debut

You’ve seen them around — kids in steel floral dresses with steel hardware, stomping and clacking between punk and pretty action. Harry Styles can do it. Olivia Rodrigo can do it. And to kick off London Fashion Week, 39 models did the same, wearing bored expressions and beautiful, brave prints, all mingling like schoolboys at a party. Crowded concert in the basement. It’s not just conjecture, BTW — Emma Chopova and Laura Lowena wowed lacrosse players, heavy metal musicians and art school students this season, along with giant hoodies and shorts tiny to wear the peasant velvet dresses and their signature kilns. But can a brand now remain in the “underworld” where everyone wants to wear them? Keep stable.


Nesi Dojaka’s Big Finale

It’s always difficult when a groundbreaking designer has a “signature”, because how can they move forward while still creating what people want? Nensi Dojaka figured it out by enhancing her famous cup bras with paper-thin evening pants and a lurex metal bodysuit, along with a pair of real wide-leg jeans. excellent. The Albanian designer says she tied the collection to images of Grace Jones taken by photographer Jean-Paul Goude, but, if we’re being completely honest, the fact that EmRata ended the show in a merlot wrap corset dress is a pop culture freeze frame. its own.


Milly Alcock at 16Arlington

Yes, jewel-encrusted hosiery is cool, but honestly, the best ad for the brand is House Targaryen’s Milly Alcock sitting in the front row in the brand’s long black leather trench and the watch. Absolute black jacket. She looks like a baby Annette Bening, and the rest of us will be chasing this unicorn in search of many years.


Tartan fabric scraps at Vivienne Westwood

Look closely at these new pieces, and you can notice the phrase “Born to Rewild” embroidered on the sides. It is an allusion to the UK’s passionate embrace of “rewilding”, where lands such as golf courses are “returned” to nature, allowing oppressed ecosystems to return to their original locations. they. (Do you want to give it a try? Start by leaving a “weed”-like clover on your front lawn!) Westwood is helping fund the effort, and you can help her by How to only buy clothes that you commit to wearing forever, instead of just a few seasons. (I think of the tartan heart-shaped corset and the royal navy mini dress.)


Plastic skeleton at Christopher Kane

It’s been 5 years since the “go-out bra” became just a corset or bra. But when we really train ourselves for fashion, what happens to our core muscles — and our core values ​​of beauty? Christopher Kane is available for discussion. He crafted PVC corsets to turn lingerie into a science experiment, with see-through veins and painted veins to emphasize the creepy, enticing way it flexes their skeletons. ta. He also has an oversized dose of knitwear and wowzer Chelsea boots are modern, because sometimes, we just want to get dressed and feel cool without having to think about it.


KNWLS ‘Riff on Penny Lane

Speaking of corsets, it’s great to see the KNWLS team loose their signature bodies and lean into something that weaves between ’90s staples and ’70s concert jackets. Did we own a similar suit from Contempo Casuals circa 1998? Absolutely — but KNWLS is doing it with investment materials that will make this look last with our daughters.


Rejina Pyo’s Working Woman

Rejina Pyo is a talented, ambitious woman who sets the stage for other talented, ambitious women. Her collection is called “soft power,” with tight pants and oversized coats made for the home wardrobes of investment bankers and gallery directors. . (Like, Yasmin from Industry Totally wearing Rejina Pyo, right?) Overall, the show was great, but in the end our favorite is Pyo’s own cream suit, because she’s a businesswoman doing business. business, and she looks very easy.


Chet Lo stretches

He’s famous for his soft popcorn dresses and spikes, but this season, Chet Lo flatters his figure with a stretchy knit top that’s warm enough for winter but hot enough for date night, especially. is with a great pair of high boots. Deepen!


The broken doll in Dilara Findikoglu

The miniskirt and t-shirt got tired, but Dilara Findikoglu made it magical by having a really different look at the seams. Sad girl autumn? We’re really getting into it right now.

“I can direct? In fact, in Toga’s clothes, you can. Undoubtedly, the label from Japan to London is coveted by stylists and connoisseurs all over the world for it’s fashion that lets you breathe and stay stylish. To prove it, designer Yasuko Furuta held her spring 2023 show on several benches and let the models (and looks) lean back.


*The dress* at Molly Goddard

Ever since Bottega Veneta showed off her leather and tulle ball gown on the fall 2022 runway, we’ve been wondering if the silhouette is a one-off or if another could carry this trend. go further or not. Molly Goddard did it in London with this purple-pink camisole that moves like sponges across the body, and looks like every little girl’s dream outfit. With a red peplum top, it’s a modern idea for a big night out. Basically, yes, we are in love.


Grown-Ups Table at Erdem

After 20 years of being a legal adult, I just realized that Dressing such a fact is a source of strength. Join Erdem, Britain’s elegant and restrained heroic label for floral circular skirts, lace-trimmed gowns and believably ornate embroidery on simple cotton covers. Designer Erdem Moralioglu has frequently (and masterfully) referred to Queen Elizabeth II’s adjoining jazz dance days with black sequins and yellow roses. This time, he kept the floral tributes, but added glittering ribbons that looked like funeral clothes, or the black grosgrain band worn during a Jewish call. Wrapped in black-and-white drapes and anchored by polished black heels — essentially the “hard upper” of the shoe — the show, in the style of Gabriella Karefa-Johnson, was very reverent while still being awesome. In other words, it’s the adult’s business.


‘Flowers in the Air’ at Susan Fang

Susan Fang’s catwalk dresses seem to float like paper kites on the catwalk, and here’s why: the designer takes pieces of gauze, dyes the strips, folds them by hand, then arranges them into 3D “air prints”—basically little stacks of fabric—and “air flowers” ​​made from swirls of her custom material. The technique was on full display during her London Fashion Week premiere, which sparked some “oooh” as well as “aww” moments: Turns out the cool floral doodles beautiful on some of Fang’s clothes drawn by her mother, who mailed sketches to her daughter from Shanghai! (Friends, but let’s make it fashionable.)

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